Written 26th April
We have been well and truly slap'd! By which I mean waterfall'd :)
The Krka national park yesterday was stunning. As with Plitvice, the river crosses karst landscape and unlike the usual errosive action of water, in these places it actually builds the barriers and ledges which form the falls and other features of the landscape. The water is very heavy with calcium carbonate and the action of the crashing of the waters releases CO2 from the water leaving the calcium to fall out and become deposited on the rock, moss, algae and other plantlife through which the water rushes. As the build up of calcium encrusted plants increases, barriers of 'living' travertine form, which increase heights of the falls and thus the crashing of the water which releases yet more calcium and CO2 and so the process continues and the landscape is ever changing. Fascinating stuff!
Driving on from there, we found our way to Skradin and, not realising that there is a free (included in the ticket price) boat from Skradin marina, parket by the main road entrance to the park and walked the 3kms along the valley to the Big Slap, Skradinski Buk, and it was amazing.
If Plitvice is about tranquil deep hued pools and a myriad of overflowing lakes, Krka is about the sheer awesome power of a single body of water. A massive energy rush which overwhelms the senses in a continual roar of noise.
Onwards and upwards to the remains of much older river fed industry, the watermills. These have been really nicely done up to house various exhibitions of rural working life, including
a flour mill - with working spinning grindstones -
a film about basket weaving,
and a really lovely weaving lady who told us all about the traditional costumes of the region and showed us how the loom works. Fascinating
And we got back the big waterfall in time to catch the last boat back and the last two seats up top so a pleasant float along the tranquil lake - perfect.
Can't really compare it to Plitvice, neither is better than the other, they are both so different - you will just have to go to both!
We were going to head on to Split yesterday evening but stopped in the Skradin carpark - free at the moment - to cook dinner and got chatting to one of the four sets of motorhome people there - Swiss, they spoke German, no English, I speak english, no German but we handily found a common french ground! - who said that they were staying the night and that out of season they thought it would be ok.
So we decided to stop too, it was ok, and very nice not to have to stealth cook in the dark!
This morning the sun was shining brightly when we woke up. Will spent a happy morning re-fettling his code and I have started the epic oeuvre that is catching up on my daisies - got to Pula before we packed up, pics when I've finished! - before setting off Split-wards.
We stopped for a break and a wander in Trogir - a tiny mediaeval walled town on an island in the Trogirski channel between the mainland and Ciovo island. And it was lovely.
castle, sunshine, just lovely.
And we are now in Split, having found the shop almost immediately thanks to Ivan's map and directions - mercedes garage, blue building, left at the junction, on the right! - they don't have the oil filter in stock but will hopefully get one in for tomorrow, so we are waiting for the rush hour traffic to die down before setting off further into town